DUBLIN: Cork is different. At least that’s what those who live in Cork will tell you. It’s not an exaggeration to say that the locals in Ireland’s second city reckon they have had all the luck. Not only do they live in a place surrounded by some of the most beautiful countryside in Europe (West Cork truly is a gem), but their city is populated by some of the wittiest, smartest, best-looking people in the country. Ask them, they’ll tell you.
Seriously though, Cork does have a lot going for it.
A small, picturesque island city, surrounded on both sides by the river Lee, it’s a pedestrian-friendly place and most visitors start off wandering along the river banks to get a sense of it. Foodies, however, should first head to the English Market, which is a veritable treasure chest of artisan cheeses, meats and freshly caught fish. As appealing as the produce is the banter of the local tradesmen: Corkonians have a great sense of humor and love nothing more than to have the chats with visitors. The market is also a beautiful example of Victorian architecture — all vaulted ceilings and high columns. On a sunny day, take your food to Bishop Lucey Park for an alfresco lunch in the (all too infrequent) sunshine.
For a sense of Cork’s history, visit the Cork Public Museum. Housed in a Georgian Mansion overlooking the river, it spans the years from the Stone Age right up to Cork’s favorite sporting son, ex-footballer Roy Keane. Cork is not a city filled with art, but one must-see stop is Crawford Art Gallery, home to a wonderful permanent collection of Irish art, including work by Jack B. Yeats, Sir John Lavery and Nathaniel Hone.
Much of the joy of Cork lies in wandering the streets and finding one of the many wonderful cafés and bakeries. It’s fair to say a sweet tooth is a local characteristic, and the area around Oliver Plunkett Street and Patrick Street is full of places to satisfy it. For something more highbrow, head to recent Michelin star winner Ichigo Ichie, in the city center. Run by a Japanese head chef who pioneered kappou-style dining in Ireland, it’s worth booking a few days (or weeks) in advance in order to get a table.
Of course, most visitors to Cork city use it as the gateway to West Cork, which is no surprise since it’s one of the most beautiful parts of Ireland. It’s a land filled with lush countryside, hidden bays, spectacular beaches and Michelin star restaurants. The first stop on any itinerary should be Cobh, about 30 minutes south of Cork city. It was where the Titanic made its final stop before its ill-fated journey, and there’s a fascinating museum that features everything from mock-ups of the cabins to an interactive reenactment of the journey.
Further west, the grandeur of West Cork opens out. From the charming foodie-favorite of Clonakilty, dotted with colorful houses, organic markets and a cosmopolitan, expat population, to the picturesque coastal village of Ballydehob (which has its own Michelin Star restaurant, Chesnut), which is filled with food and music festivals during the summer months.
Baltimore and Schull are two other perennial favorites. Baltimore is the perfect place to base yourself if you fancy a boat trip to the nearby Sherkin and Cape Clear islands, and the busy fishing port has a maritime charm all its own. Head to one of the cafés overlooking the harbor and grab a cup of tea or an ice cream and watch the comings and goings.
Schull, further west, is quieter and more rugged, with spectacular views of the West Cork coast. Come during the annual regatta and prepare to be regaled by tales of the sea by the participants. Whether you choose to believe them is up to you, however! The town is also home to Ireland’s only planetarium, built by a German visitor who fell in love with the place. Further west are equally gorgeous towns; the likes of Crookhaven, Bantry and Glengarrif. Your best bet is to rent a car and drive the coast road, stopping off at the towns and villages that take your fancy. There’s an undeniable magic about this part of the world, which is why so many visitors end up living here.
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