LONDON: Saint Lucia has a fractious past. Having switched hands between the British and French no fewer than seven times during the centuries when the UK and France were regular sparring partners, it is now a land of mixed characteristics.
The island in the eastern Caribbean’s Lesser Antilles is littered with French place names — Vieux Fort, Castries, Soufrière, Choiseul — creating a justifiable sense that you’ve landed in a French territory. Yet the locals speak and conduct business in English; the only linguistic hint of French comes in the island’s creole dialect.
What does this mean for tourists? Not much. The food is remarkably similar to other islands in the region — fish, rice, beans, plantains, jerk chicken, and hot sauce. The beaches, too, are familiar — stunning when lapped by the Caribbean Sea, rugged and windswept when facing the Atlantic Ocean. But the island’s mixed heritage is always there in the background, a quiet reminder of its history.
To fully explore the island, you’ll need to hire a car. The west coast road cuts through the mountainous rainforest, offering a stunning, lush roadtrip that takes around two hours from the southern tip — where international flights arrive — to the northern region, where most tourists stay.
Once at the hotel you could, of course, hit the beach and put your feet up, but for those with exploration on the mind there are many attractions to visit. The volcanic Pitons mountains are the best-known and hardest to miss. Gros Piton rises up 771 meters, while Petit Piton hits 743 meters. Viewing them is likely enough for most, but you can also take the plunge into a volcanic mud bath, an experience that will apparently rejuvenate the skin.
At the other end of the island you can enjoy a gentle hike around Pigeon Island, home to Fort Rodney, a remnant of Britain’s military legacy. The easy walk to the fort’s lookout point takes a mere 20 minutes, and from there you can peer out to the French-owned island of Martinique, around 40 kilometers away, in the same way as British soldiers would have done a hundred years ago, although without the stress of having to spot potentially life-threatening invaders approaching. Lying around as though discarded one sunny afternoon are three ancient 24-pounder cannons — a stark reminder of when the Caribbean was less about sundowners and more about sugar cane and gunpowder.
Many people of course come to Saint Lucia for honeymoons and romance. The island has several high-end hotels for those with deep pockets, including the dazzling Sugar Beach Resort with its lily-white sands, and the slightly more rugged, adults-only Ti Kaye hotel, set above a beach that offers superb snorkeling.
A major non-beach activity is found at the St. Lucia Golf Club on the northern side of the island, which is expected to be upgraded to Championship status later this year. The current course is acceptable for most, with a grand clubhouse that’s worth a visit regardless of your eagerness to smash little balls over grass.
The main nuisance on the island is the sluggish evening traffic found near most towns. The tailbacks can leave you exasperated, so should be avoided if possible. Dangerous driving is also a problem, particularly at night, but that is no different to any other island up and down the Caribbean.
With its regionally renowned Friday night street party on top of all the other attractions, Saint Lucia has much to offer. Hire a car and take a tour whether you’re here for romance or not — and who knows, a volcanic mud bath might be just what your honeymoon needs.
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