ISLAMABAD: Fashion Pakistan Week (FPW) Spring/Summer 2018 broke new ground in several ways, thanks to designers who used the platform they were given to showcase not only their latest creative clothing designs, but also to highlight social issues and tackle one of the industry’s most persistent barriers: inclusion.
On the first evening of the two-night event, which was held on April 10th and 11th in Karachi, FPW debutante Cheena Chhapra rocked the ramp like no other designer has before with a collection designed for and modeled by plus-sized women, all of whom were over the age of 40, with some in the 60s.
Few strides have been taken in Pakistan toward providing fashion for older, fuller-figured women, and so the delighted crowd cheered when Chhapra dared to venture into new territory. Her models included cancer survivors, teachers, lawyers, mothers, CEOs and celebrities — in short, women from every walk of Pakistani life. Her collection featured eastern formals designs.
Amir Adnan opened the show for his environmentally conscious menswear collection “Beast” with hearing-impaired models, an inclusion initiative he worked on with the Fashion Pakistan Council.
“We linked up with the Noor-e-Elahi trust to support the hearing impaired by having hearing-impaired models walk the ramp for Amir Adnan,” said Feri Rawanian, CEO of Fashion Pakistan Council. “Fashion Pakistan Week Spring/Summer 2018 is all about being inclusive and providing equal opportunity.”
This was the first time a major ramp in the country had featured hearing-impaired models in a show.
The first night also included a message of environmental awareness. Maheen Khan’s collection for Gulabo was entitled “Liberation.” This was referring to a change in the air, but the show also included messages across the collection about the importance of living a life that supports the earth and is environmentally friendly.
Hassan Riaz’s “Paradise Mirage” featured two little stars opening the show. The children helped Riaz to highlight the very real and prevalent issue of child labor and abuse in Pakistan, through a collection that combined child-like joy with the dark reality of an often misunderstood and ignored problem that is all-too common around the world.
In addition to the ground-breaking and confidence-boosting moves to make fashion more accessible to everybody, there was also the matter of fashion itself.
Gulabo and FNKAsia’s “Pegah” brought the energy they have come to be known for: chic and easy, with a mix of funky surprises and supreme wearability. FNKAsia sent out dresses and cuts that were fit for any bohemian summer moods. Gulabo expertly incorporated prints into cuts that were edgy while also making the grade as wardrobe staples.
Pink Tree’s “Chaand Raat” stayed true to the brand’s aesthetic, with nostalgic design work, silhouettes and colors brought up to date with a modern aesthetic that has won the design house legions of fans. The pieces were all festive in their own ways, but viewed together on the ramp they brought out appreciation for a fashion era when cuts reigned supreme and fabric mattered more than embellishment.
Yasmeen Jiwa’s “Qous-e-Qazah” combined eastern and western elements in a collection with a color scheme of silvery, misty grays and flowing blues juxtaposed with citrus hues and bold reds, all weaved together with mirror, thread, sequin and lace work.
Farah Talib Aziz’s collection “Mirabelle,” which closed the first night, utilized her signature color palettes, opting for ethereal muted tones with textured elements in pearl beadings, Swarovski crystals, lace and romantic thread work mixed into prints of floral landscapes.
Inclusion was at the fore once again on the second night, with Nauman Arfeen’s “Lines,” a menswear collection (plus his signature two women’s outfits). He paired monochromes with a cohesive touch of patriotic green flowing in and out of the show.
Arfeen took his final walk of the night with his important guests, Pakistan’s Special Olympic medal winners. Arfeen stood behind them waving the Pakistani flag. The clear message was of how patriotic unity and inclusion must go hand in hand.
Deepak Perwani’s “Black is the new white” was a mix of menswear and womenswear consisting of black and white looks suited to the summer months. The collection was smart, wearable and sprinkled throughout with unexpected touches, such as feather work and stand-out prints.
“Winds of Summer” was the aptly titled collection from designer duo Saira Shakira, in which traditional and modern cuts were combined in an eastern-wear collection that borrowed from the west seamlessly. A standout piece was a white sari with a printed paloo, paired with a sheer, embroidered vest.
Rozina Muneeb’s “Glamorama” lived up to its name in one of the few fully formal collections in this FPW. The designer put a number of techniques to work to create a collection that included crystals, bead work, ruffles and 3D appliqués.
Inspired by the puppet shows she watched as a child, Boheme by Kanwal’s “Kathputli Tamasha” was a combination of throwback work and up-to-date modern style sensibilities. Regional-inspired thread, mirror and appliqué work could be spotted on cuffs, hems and borders. Similar to the aesthetics of Pink Tree, Boheme is sticking to the concept that “old is gold,” especially with the addition of a little contemporary flare.
“Ebru” by Natasha Kamal displayed a playful approach to both pattern and line play. With a diverse range of silhouettes, the designer used intelligent tailoring to give her pattern and color work multi-faceted appeal across garments.
The evening ended with AFH by Ayesha Farook, who is known for her glamorous eveningwear. Rich fabrics were cut into flowing designs in which large statement sleeves and billowing trains were played expertly against well-tailored trousers and tops.
Though the main focus of FPW was of course the clothes, the event was one for the books thanks to the number of designers who went for something a little bit different. The choice to be inclusive, informative and use their platform to highlight and celebrate our differences is a trend that can not only inject life into future events, but also reshape the fashion industry as it continues to grow.
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