The ubiquity of international coffee shop chains in the Middle East has led to a proliferation of mediocrity when it comes to pastries and baked goods. A slightly stale croissant or an arid doughnut is now the norm. But Japanese bakery Yamanote Atelier, which has three branches in Dubai — at Wasl Square, Dubai International Financial Center, and Dubai Mall, offers a taste of something better.
The majority of the food is based on popular Japanese stylings — from the matcha (Japanese green tea) cream cheese bun and Yamanote rose croissant, through the kitsch-y “character” bakes which allow you to sample Super Mario, Hello Kitty or Studio Ghibli favorite Totoro as a sweet bun. And don’t forget the classic Japanese delicacy, the yakisoba bun — a bread roll filled with fried yakisoba noodles.
At first glance, this might seem like someone was forced to come up with a way to use up leftovers, but it is actually a very tasty, if unusual, concoction — a blend of sweet and savory with a salty tang.
It is also very filling; indeed, in Japan it’s a popular lunchtime snack.
One of these — or perhaps its close cousin, the vermicelli-packed Balaleet, filled out with egg and cream cheese, and seasoned with saffron and cardamom — should see you comfortably through the afternoon.
Yamanote has also added some Middle Eastern flourishes to its menu in Dubai, including the halloumi and za’atar barr — basically a slim, open-top sandwich on a croissant base, garnished with cherry tomatoes.
This attempt at local flavor was, for this customer at least, not up to the (admittedly very high) standards of the rest of the fare. The halloumi seemed bland and a little rubbery, while the pastry did not stand up well to the additional moisture of the tomatoes — which is unusual, since many of Yamanote’s sweet dishes pull this trick off well; the blueberry heart brioche, for example, is crammed with custard cream and blueberry jam, with no soggy bottom in sight.
The disappointment of the halloumi and za’atar bar, though, seems to be a one-off.
Other savory dishes — beef sausage roll, pizza baguette — stand up well; the egg roll in particular is worth sampling — egg and mayonnaise wrapped in a tantalizing crispy curry dough and breadcrumbs. Again, it’s a surprisingly filling item.
Yamanote’s great strength, though, is its sweet pastries.
Everything is fresh and the flavors are distinct.
The cinnamon roll is a highlight — the edges are so crisp that they are almost burnt, giving a delicious caramel-y tang to the glaze, while the center remains moist and still infused with flavor.
Of course there is also a wide range of beverages on offer, including the liquid version of matcha and several other Japanese teas.
Yamanote also has its own notably flavorsome coffee blend (available in decaf too), which came as a pleasant surprise.
As you would expect from a bakery originating in a country renowned for its aesthetic leanings, everything is beautifully presented — from the delicate pastries at the self-service centerpiece of the store to the gift boxes of traditional Japanese confectionery for sale at the counter.
Another point in Yamanote’s favor is the knowledgeable and helpful staff. They all seemed well acquainted with the ingredients of the food and were able to advise on special dietary requirements, giving the impression they are genuinely interested in providing a good customer experience.
If you are in Dubai and looking for somewhere to grab a coffee and a snack, we highly recommend skipping the big chains and heading for a taste of Japan.
• life.style@arabnews.com
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