الثلاثاء، 25 سبتمبر 2018

Breathing new life into Emirati traditions

Author: 
Saffiya Ansar
ID: 
1537942650305147100
Wed, 2018-09-26 09:15

LONDON: Visitors to the London Design Fair held last week at The Old Truman Brewery, East London’s revolutionary arts and media quarter, had the opportunity to see a wealth of talent from around the globe. The four-day industry event brought together 550 exhibitors from 36 countries, including independent designers, established brands, international pavilions, features and exhibitions.

Eight designers from the UAE, supported by the UAE Ministry of Culture and Knowledge Development, showcased their work at the d3 (Dubai Design District) “UAE Design Stories: The Next Generation from the Emirates” national pavilion.

d3, a hub for inspiration and innovation, is home to the region’s growing talent pool of designers and artists.

Under the theme, “Objects of the Past: Today,” d3 invited the designers to draw on the historical archives of the UAE to create modern designs. This meant exploring the region’s nomadic roots and ancestral legacy. Each piece, specially created for the exhibition, curated by Khalid Shafar, opened a window into the past through a contemporary lens.

The designs, including distinctive jewelry, glassware, leather goods, textiles ceramics and furniture, were displayed alongside the archive materials which inspired them, including film and old photographs of Abu Dhabi by Ronald Codrai, giving the onlooker a rich historical perspective on the work.

Arab News spoke to Aljoud Lootah, a multidisciplinary designer based in Dubai, noted for interpreting Emirati culture and traditional craftsmanship through contemporary design. Lootah is the first Emirati designer to have had her work acquired by an international gallery — the National Gallery of Victoria in Melbourne, Australia. She produces bespoke objects and collectible designs for government organizations and private companies and has been involved in numerous retail and residential interior projects.

For the London Design Fair she created her “Mandoos” collection featuring beautiful suede-lined, camel leather jewelry boxes and cases inspired by traditional dowry chests and drawing on the art of khoos, or palm weaving.

“The dowry chests had a lot of carving and were embellished with metallic studs. The patterns on my collection are inspired by the traditional Emirati craft of palm-frond weaving used to make items such as mats and baskets,” she said.

Lootah was keen to pay homage to khoos, which used to be prevalent and has now largely disappeared. This type of reimagining of Emirati traditional crafts is a hallmark of her work. “I want to tell the story of our rich history and culture through modern designs,” she said.

She was struck by the level of interest in the detail of the pieces shown by visitors to the fair and believes that d3 has provided a great platform to showcase UAE designs.

“I really appreciate what d3 are doing — they have been very supportive,” she said.

We also spoke to Abdalla Almulla, who exhibited his “Tie-In” design, a modular steel tube and node system inspired by traditional Arish or palm-frond housing, which can be used to create room dividers and tables.

“As an architect I was intrigued by the old Emirati Arish houses. To construct them they used two main components: palm fronds and ropes. The steel columns in my designs echo the palm fronds and can be adjusted to whatever height is desired and adapted for different functions, for example a screen, or a side table. Back then palms were a main resource in the UAE — you saw them in roofs, wall partitions and flooring. My modern designs reflect both the form and function of the palm,” he said.

“In Dubai I increasingly see people wanting to invest in specially designed pieces rather than just buying from chain stores. There is a growing awareness and interest in local design and production,” he said.

Almulla received his bachelor’s degree in architecture from Woodbury University in San Diego, US, in 2014. For his research based on geometric explorations, he was awarded the Grand Critique Faculty Choice Award and the Best Degree Project Award in Architectural Design.

He has enjoyed showing his work in London. “It was a really great experience to showcase Emirati designs at the London Design Fair, especially as the exhibits raised cultural awareness,” he said.

“The interest expressed by visitors exceeded my expectations. They showed a lot of curiosity in all of our designs.

“d3 has been amazing. From the very beginning, when we were chosen as the Emirati designers, we got support with curation and production — anything we needed. Having the archive material on display alongside our designs made it easy for the visitors to see the correlation between the ancient and modern and added layers of interest to the displays,” he said.

“I think showcasing abroad it is good opportunity to show the world that in our region we are not just consumers — we also make and design and can compete globally,” he said.

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Beirut Art Fair: For artists faced with the unfairThe hottest artists in the Arab world right now https://ift.tt/2Dy5SgX September 26, 2018 at 07:22AM

Discovering a lost cuisine

Author: 
Saffiya Ansar
ID: 
1537940596005091700
Wed, 2018-09-26 08:42

BEIRUT: Tucked away in the outskirts of Gemmayze, Armenian restaurant Mayrig might have been difficult to spot if not for the busy valet service. The setting, an old stone house with a garden-style walk-through, lined with plants of all sorts, indicates an effort to create a cozy, home-like atmosphere in a bustling location.
This ambience is reflected inside and out. The interior is designed like any traditional Levantine home, with oriental carpets, patterned-tile floors and stone-wall interiors. Black-and-white portraits of the owner’s ancestors line the walls, creating a warm and welcoming experience of a kind you might expect at a grandmother’s home. Our host, George, played a major part in making us feel welcome and at home with a few jokes and words of wisdom between every course.
We were sampling a degustation menu, which began with a huge selection of salads and appetizers. One of the most popular was the famous eetch, a tangy and spicy salad made with cooked bulgur and tomato paste, lightly topped with parsley. It is similar in some ways to the Lebanese tabbouleh, yet very different in taste and consistency. 
Perhaps the overall favorite appetizer was the printzov keufteh, a rice-crusted kebbe in which the sweet starchiness of the crispy rice shell blends beautifully with the savory meat-and-pine nut filling.
The appetizers ended with a selection of traditional Armenian cheese pies called sou beureg. Three flavors were offered, listed in our order of preference — thyme, sujuk and basterma. Sujuk and basterma are traditional, spicy, air-cured Armenian sausages that became popular in Lebanon after Armenians settled in the country. Thyme and cheese always pair well, but the sujuk pie was overwhelming thanks to its smoky saltiness and the basterma completely overpowered the cheese with its powerful, gamy flavor.
We were already starting to feel full as the main courses began to arrive. First to be served was the fishnah kebab, a grilled-beef kebab topped with a wild sour cherry sauce. This was the only real let down of the meal, as the kebab was dry and lacked seasoning. However, the cherry sauce was the perfect balance between sweet and sour.
This recipe was brought to Yerevan, the capital of Armenia, by an influx of Armenian refugees returning to their homeland after the civil war began in Syria. As such it is a dish that perfectly embodies what Armenian food has become — an ever-changing food culture.
Next on the main course menu was the unforgettable manti. Crisp-on-the-outside minced-meat dumplings were doused in a spicy tomato sauce, allowing them to soften, then topped with yogurt and a dash of sumac to balance out the heat. This is definitely a crowd-pleaser at Mayrig and they even offer a vegetarian version made with spinach.
Finally, we came to the dessert menu, beginning with the rose loukoum ice cream, a light and airy sherbet with a fun chew due to the inclusion of mastic — a plant resin. Another must-try is the semi-dried apricot stuffed with ashta, a Lebanese milk pudding. The desserts will bring you back to Mayrig, if nothing else does.
Mayrig — which means “mother” in Armenian — pays tribute to all the Armenian women through the ages who, despite war and other hardships, were able to ensure that the traditional flavors and recipes of their ancestors endured.
Armenian cuisine has been described as a lost cuisine. However, Mayrig proves otherwise as it gathers together varieties from across the regions and generations — and now it is coming full circle by returning to its homeland, with the opening of a new restaurant in Yerevan.

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https://ift.tt/2xzlprx September 26, 2018 at 06:45AM

Will Smith to make birthday bungee jump near Grand Canyon

Author: 
Associated Press
ID: 
1537898307490476800
Tue, 2018-09-25 (All day)

LITTLE COLORADO RIVER GORGE, Arizona: Will Smith is diving head first into turning 50.
The actor will mark his milestone birthday Tuesday by bungee jumping from a helicopter in northern Arizona.
It will be livestreamed on his YouTube channel .
The stunt is being billed as a leap “in the heart of the Grand Canyon.”
However, the “Fresh Prince” will not jump at Grand Canyon National Park but over a smaller gorge on the Navajo Nation.
The tribe’s reservation borders the east rim of the national park.
In a YouTube video posted earlier this month, Smith recalled visiting the Grand Canyon as a child but being terrified to walk up to the edge.
The event also raised money for charity with an online lottery for a chance to watch the jump in person.

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Michael Kors agrees to buy Versace for €1.83 billion

Author: 
Reuters
ID: 
1537875051508054000
Tue, 2018-09-25 11:24

MILAN: US fashion group Michael Kors has agreed to buy Versace in a deal valuing the revered designer at $2 billion including debt, the companies said on Tuesday, making it the latest Italian brand to fall into foreign hands.
Michael Kors, whose namesake label is best known for its leather handbags, has made no secret of its ambition to grow its portfolio of high-end brands after buying British stiletto-heel maker Jimmy Choo for $1.2 billion last year.
Versace, known for its bold and glamorous designs and its Medusa head logo, was one of a clutch of family-owned Italian brands cited as attractive targets at a time when the luxury industry is riding high on strong demand from China.
“We believe that the strength of the Michael Kors and Jimmy Choo brands, and the acquisition of Versace, position us to deliver multiple years of revenue and earnings growth,” John Idol, chairman and CEO of Michael Kors said.
As part of the deal, Michael Kors agreed to buy all of Versace’s outstanding shares for a total enterprise value of €1.83 billion ($2.2 billion), to be funded in cash, debt and shares in Michael Kors Holding Ltd, which will be renamed Capri Holdings Ltd.
US private equity firm Blackstone, which bought 20 percent of Versace back in 2014, will fully exit its investment.
The Versace family, which currently owns 80 percent of the fashion house via a holding company called Givi, will receive €150 million of the purchase price in Capri shares.
“We believe that being part of this group is essential to Versace’s long-term success. My passion has never been stronger,” said Donatella Versace, sister of the company’s late founder, and artistic director and vice president of the Milan-based group.
After the deal, Versace CEO Jonathan Akeroyd will remain at the helm of the company, while Donatella Versace will “continue to lead the company’s creative vision,” Idol added.
The deal is expected to close in the fourth fiscal quarter, subject to regulatory approvals.
Michael Kors said it plans to grow Versace’s global sales to $2 billion globally, boost its retail footprint to 300 stores from around 200 at present and accelerate its e-commerce strategy. It also plans to raise the share of higher-margin accessories and footwear to 60 percent of sales from 35 percent.
Versace does not disclose its financial details, but documents deposited with the Italian chamber of commerce show that last year it posted sales of €668 million and earnings before interest, tax, depreciation and appreciation of €45 million.

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Imaan Hammam gets colorful in VersaceMichael Kors snaps up Italy’s Versace — sources https://ift.tt/2Q5np1v September 25, 2018 at 01:04PM

Nicki Minaj shows off her quad biking skills in the UAE

الاثنين، 24 سبتمبر 2018

Hollywood dives deep into 1980s Israeli spy ‘resort’ in Sudan

Author: 
Clothilde Mraffko | AFP
ID: 
1537853708796879600
Tue, 2018-09-25 04:06

REL AVIV: The brochure portrayed it as a divers’ paradise located along the Red Sea in Sudan. It was in fact one of the Israeli intelligence agency’s most audacious operations.
The stunning tale is set to become a Hollywood film, starring Ben Kingsley, Haley Bennett and Chris Evans.
It dates to the early 1980s, when the Arous holiday resort and its around 15 beach houses became a prized spot for divers seeking access to Red Sea coral reefs in an unspoilt location.
“The fish came to nibble on the divers’ masks,” said Daniel Limor, who led “Operation Brothers” for Israel’s spy agency, Mossad.
As far as tourists and Sudanese authorities knew, the resort village was owned by Europeans who employed local residents.
They were unaware that Arous was a Mossad base to secretly evacuate 7,000 Ethiopian Jews to Israel from refugee camps in Sudan.
The operation played out for four years, from 1981 to 1985.
Urged into action by an Ethiopian Jew in Khartoum, Israeli prime minister Menachem Begin decided to move ahead with the mission in 1977.
Limor, who was also a diving aficionado, spotted a holiday resort built by Italian entrepreneurs in the 1970s along the Red Sea that had been abandoned due to lack of road access and running water.
“It’s something that just fell from the sky,” he said, his voice still filled with surprise decades later.
At the time, Ethiopian Jews had fled their country for refugee camps in neighboring Sudan to escape famine, war and persecution, with the goal of ultimately fulfilling the isolated community’s dream of reaching the holy land.
But the journey by foot to Sudan was filled with danger.
“They were attacked, raped, robbed,” said Limor, who was consulted for the script for the film, due out next year.
“They suffered. They also died in the refugee camps.”

Israel and Muslim-majority Sudan

To set the plan in motion, Ethiopian intermediaries selected Jews who would be exfiltrated from the Sudanese camps.
The operation held great risk for all involved given the relations between Israel and Muslim-majority Sudan.
“We were the eyes, the ears and the feet of the Mossad,” said Miki Achihon, an Ethiopian Jewish student at the time who had fled to Sudan.
Without telephones or Internet, everything was done person-to-person.
“The Mossad doesn’t give us a sort of contract. It doesn’t give us a down payment,” said Achihon, who would later become a lieutenant colonel in the Israeli military.
“We did it for our people.”
After being taken into the Sudanese desert, groups of between 100 and 200 people were met by Mossad agents who drove them away in trucks.
“Then started the long drive to the shore — something like 700 kilometers (435 miles),” said Gad Shimron, one of the agents based at Arous and the author of a book on the operation.
At the end of the road, they delivered the refugees to Israeli ships waiting in international waters.
“Of course, we had in mind the possibility of us hanging — you know, feet up,” Shimron said.
Apparently taking them for traffickers, Sudanese soldiers opened fire one night as the last boat left.
They escaped unharmed, but the Israelis were shaken and changed tactics.
They opted for another daring strategy: landing planes in the desert in the middle of the night to transport the refugees to Tel Aviv.
Shimron said there was a “moment of elation” when the planes took off and the operatives would stand in the quiet of the desert.
Some tourists suspected that Arous was being used as a trafficking site due to its location just across the Saudi coastal city of Jeddah.
But the agents’ double lives were never exposed, said Yola, a Mossad operative who managed the resort.
She said she could have remained at Arous for the rest of her life.
“I didn’t want to go back,” she said. “I was completely the other person.”

Leaving behind family

The operation would have to come to an end in 1985 when one of their Ethiopian contacts was questioned by the police.
As a precautionary measure, the Mossad urgently evacuated the village.
But today, its legacy stands as a key part of Israel’s efforts to bring their Jewish brethren over from Ethiopia.
More than 100,000 Ethiopian Jews have emigrated to Israel since the 1980s.
In 1984, Operation Moses exfiltrated 8,000 Jews, while seven years later Operation Solomon brought more than 14,000 people to Israel in 36 hours.
For the Ethiopians, the joy of arriving was accompanied by the difficulty of adapting to a new home and overcoming trauma they had endured.
Many regretted leaving behind family.
Achihon said they should have been given psychological treatment, but the government “immediately tried to take us to be part of the society,” offering language and other types of training.
“Many were not ready,” he said.
He said there was also discrimination.
For Achihon, the “heroic” role of the Ethiopian activists should never be forgotten.
More than three decades later, the movie version of Operation Brothers — “The Red Sea Diving Resort” — is being directed by Israeli filmmaker Gideon Raff, filmed in South Africa and Namibia.
“It is a unique, Zionist James Bond story,” said Shimron.

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What We Are Reading Today: African Dominion  by Michael A. Gomez

Author: 
Tue, 2018-09-25 01:25

Pick up almost any book on early and medieval world history and empire, and where do you find West Africa? On the periphery. This pioneering book, the first on this period of the region’s history in a generation, tells a different story. 

Interweaving political and social history and drawing on a rich array of sources, including Arabic manuscripts, oral histories, and recent archaeological findings, Michael Gomez unveils a new vision of how categories of ethnicity, race, gender, and caste emerged in Africa and in global history more generally. Scholars have long held that such distinctions arose during the colonial period, but Gomez shows they developed much earlier.

Focusing on the Savannah and Sahel region, Gomez traces the exchange of ideas and influences with North Africa and the Central Islamic Lands by way of merchants, scholars, and pilgrims. 

Islam’s growth in West Africa resulted in a series of political experiments unique to the region, culminating in the rise of empire. A major preoccupation was the question of who could be legally enslaved, which together with other factors led to the construction of new ideas about ethnicity, race, gender, and caste — long before colonialism and the transatlantic slave trade.

Telling a radically new story about early Africa in global history, African Dominion is set to be the standard work on the subject for many years to come.

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